After dozens of friends joked about this trip being like “eat pray love,” I looked up flights to Indonesia; it would be easy to hop there from India. But I wasn’t sure… I don’t like to follow pop culture, and Indonesia didn’t really speak to me. I like to find my own adventure. I looked at visiting Nepal, or Tibet before realizing that India is also close to the Maldives. I had found my final destination.
I was going to say that for me, this trip is “Eat Pray Dive,” for I found a scuba diver in me. But I did fall in love on this trip. I fell in love with the world, with life, with myself.
I have never felt better. I have never even imagined the feeling I’ve had the last few weeks. I feel such deep peace and contentment. I feel Love, exuding from my pores, in the rays of sunlight, in the air we breathe, all around. The world seems so welcoming. It’s grand, with more to offer than we can imagine, yet it all seems so accessible.
It’s like each moment, no matter what I’m doing, feels like the high after a focused yoga class, after connecting with people authentically, after sharing a homemade cake with someone I love. My heart rate is lower, and I breathe so slowly, all the way down to my solar plexus. Pain – intense hunger, exhaustion, heartache, anger, and worry – often manifests in my solar plexus; I noticed that as a teen, before I knew what to call that soft spot in the middle of my chest. But I don’t think I’ve ever felt this frission, this joy, this energy in my solar plexus. Like the bubbles of your soda tickling your nose, this energy is so tangible.
Life is full of possibilities; I’m incredibly aware of that, but I’m not exactly excited. How do I explain this feeling beyond excitement? Excitement is like hope or fear – it’s uncertain and full of powerless imaginary ideas. I feel calmer than excited, I feel ready and sure that everything I will is within reach and will come to me. There is nothing to fear in this life. We are born fearless, but fear is learned. Life is, simply, good. Fear and worry are so incredibly unnecessary. We should embrace our fear rather than run from it. Life is so open and full of love and opportunity; all you have to do is say “yes”.
This trip has been a palate cleanser. It’s reminded me that yes, I do want connection, discovery, and wonder in my life. I want to be scared, and uncertain. I have the most fun when I embrace my fear and let it take me someplace I couldn’t have imagined, like deep in the belly of the ocean. Or eating unknown food off a banana leaf with my hands. It’s so fucking wild out there, and I greatly prefer that to stability. I’ve struggled with my values over the last few years. Once I got this awesome job at Argonne, I saw the possibility of a comfortable and stable life. Of an excessive, shallow, and sheltered life, where you can’t imagine anything more exciting than leaving work early on Friday to eat the same damn nachos at the same damn place you’ve been proudly going to for 20+ years. I got comfortable too; for a while I couldn’t think of anything more exciting that a fancy new couch, or a glass of wine at the end of the day. I didn’t lose sight of how much more there is in life, but I wasn’t living in a way that reflected that idea, and I started to question if that’s what I really want. When you’re comfortable, you don’t grow, or learn; you don’t take chances, and you don’t experience life fully. My doubt has been completely eviscerated. I’m no longer tempted by comfort. It’s like the skies opened up, and I am reminded of an entire other realm of life above the trivial things we fixate on.
For months I couldn’t resist telling people about my loss; I didn’t think they’d be able to understand me or my life without knowing about it. And though I still struggle with that loss, it’s in proper perspective now. There is so much more, and so much that’s more important. This summer the loss felt like I was trying to go through life after losing a limb: completely debilitating, suddenly off-balance, and needing to relearn how to do basic things to care for myself. Now, I’d say that loss is more like a mosquito bite: a small irritation that is always there, but only sometimes bothers you. I have dozens of mosquito bites at the moment, but I’m still having the time of my life.
I’m not religious at all. I wouldn’t say I’m spiritual either. There’s no creator or higher being, or even higher purpose that I believe in. But I do believe in spirit, energy, and vibes, in the light within us all. I am highly sensitive to it; I’m energized and comforted by people’s positivity, creativity, authenticity, drive, and openess. And conversely, I consider spirits of judgment, negativity, banality and limitation to be poisonous in a very literal way. I’ve encountered such great energy, such amazing vibes on this trip. My heart and my energy have been filled, buffed to the brightest shine I’ve ever seen in myself. It’s so funny that just a few weeks ago I feared myself an introvert, or recluse. I am thriving now because of the connections I have with others.
I know this post sounds like I’m high, but I swear I’ve never been more sober. I feel cleansed, renewed, replenished. Mental clarity IS found in the water.
Today is my last day in the Maldives. How sad. This week has been so fantastic! I’ve felt such peace and love here. I had breakfast first, some kind of curry with kidney beans and chick peas, served with roshi, of course:
I went to the beach for my last morning swim.
And met the cutest hermit crab:
I met Kamey for lunch, and enjoyed grilled reef fish for the last time. It was good to see Kamey one last time.
At the airport I bought some stamps, and used my last bit of Maldivian currency on a passionfruit jam:
Back to Bangalore! As my dad said, “welcome home”! I was warmly greeted by Divya and her friends, who were having fun on this Saturday night. I dropped my bags at her home, changed, and we went to a busy restaurant/bar. I’ve gotten used to having Divya order food for me. We had various shared plates, mostly of spicy and flavourful meats. Our favourite was the deep-fried, bacon-wrapped chicken on a stick! After we left, there was a man riding a bicycle that said something to us. When I asked what he had said, I found out that he was biking around and selling tea from a carafe on the back of his bicycle! So I asked for a cup, it was delicious!
Today is my last full day in the Maldives, and the only day I’m not scuba diving. I had asked Ruth, the tourism consultant I’d met a few days ago about potential day trips to other islands. Unfortunately Friday is like a weekend in the Maldives, and very few of the ferries run. Ruth suggested I visit Villigilli, and arranged for Kamey to escort me there and spend the day with me – for free! I had met Kamey a few times before – he was in the tourism office when I first walked in on Monday night, and he walked me to the dive club on Tuesday morning. We had coffee with Ruth on Wednesday too! I was happy to have the opportunity to spend more time with him. I woke up super early, around 6am, and enjoyed a morning swim.
I wandered the island and had breakfast at Iberry. The meal below is roshi (the flat bread) with kulhimas (fresh fish). I ordered a fresh passion fruit juice too!
I stopped in one of the grocery stores and slowly looked at everything they had. The non-alcoholic beer looks just like, well, beer! I bought some hair oils, and some spices, and a lemon-flavored beer, and relaxed on the beach a bit more.
I was to meet Kamey at 1:30pm, and I wanted to eat first. But everywhere was closed! I hadn’t realized that most shops and restaurants would be closed until 2pm. I went back to Iberry – they were open in the morning, they should be open now, right? Wrong! But the woman working there was incredibly nice, and cooked me lunch anyway! Beef curry with rice, and some fish. Thank you! I hurried to meet Kamey, and we walked to the ferry:
We took the speedboat to Malé this time. It was smaller than the ferry, cost 25 ruffia (about $2) instead of 5, and had seats similar to an airplane.
In Malé, we stopped for a coffee at the Seahorse, which is directly above the ferry terminal and has a great view. Kamey was shy to have his picture taken. He brought along his camera for the day, and is used to being on the other side of the lenses.
We walked across the island to get to the ferry on the other side. This is the third time that Kamey and I decided to walk instead of taxi/bus; that made me really happy. We passed a beautiful mosque…
And this monument below to the lives lost during the 1988 coup d’état, in which Abdullah Luthufi took over the capital city Male with the help of a group of Sri Lankan Tamil secessionist mercenaries. The ordeal ended quickly thanks to the Indian army’s intervention.
The ferry to Villigilli only took about 20 minutes. We took some pictures along the way:
Villigilli is a tiny island with virtually no tourists. It used to be a resort island until the government converted it to be a home for the native Maldivians, so they can have an affordable place to live that’s not far from their jobs in Malé. It’s kind of awesome because it’s a short commute to the bustling capital island/city, yet they live in this peaceful paradise. Kamey taught me that the Maldives protects their trees. Any tree over 25 years old requires special government permission, and trees over 50 years old, well even the government can’t cut those down. It sounds like they took this principle even further in Villigilli in the process of converting it from a resort, and that cutting down trees here is virtually never allowed.
Hey look, sugar cane!
I couldn’t get over these beautiful flowers, casually strewn about the sidewalk beneath the tree that bears them.
I usually hold people up when I stop for pictures, so I liked that Kamey squatted next to me and joined in.
We walked the entire perimeter of the island:
The seats below are very typical and you see them all over the Maldives. It’s a metal tube frame, and a net. There are even swings like this! They are crazy comfortable, and a good example of the laid-back aura you feel throughout these islands.
He took me to a restaurant for a snack. This restaurant had a little fish pond that wound around the entrance. If we dined here, we could have chosen our fresh fish!
Sparkling pineapple juice with a view! The ocean is just behind it, but you can’t really see.
I took a dip in the ocean while Kamey went for coffee. There was a lizard in the public shower stalls!
We headed back to Malé and Kamey took me to dinner at his friend’s restaurant/coffee shop. Today’s opening day! I had wanted to try garuthdni, a traditional Maldivian fish soup. I wasn’t expecting it to be clear!
He showed me how to eat it too. You rip up the roshi, the flat bread, on a plate. Add bits of chili and red onion, and spoon the soup on top. Mix it all up with a squeeze of lime. It doesn’t look very appetizing, but it was really delicious!
And a few more hedika treats:
Our friends from the dive club joined us. Coffee in the Maldives is the equivalent to bars/drinks in most of the rest of the world. I’ve come to love this custom; it’s so relaxed and people have a different aura when it’s coffee and not cocktails. Would you believe Kamey picked up the tab for EVERYONE tonight, including my dinner? I couldn’t believe it. What a generous guy!
Beautiful diving today, as always! We had finished our skills lessons yesterday, and today’s all about fun! There were several eels with menacing stares. I loved seeing the schools of fish. I’d see a fascinating fish and focus on that, when all of a sudden a huge school of fish would sweep right around me! And then another school, and another!
I’ve never felt like such a part of the world. I am a part of the world! Is there anything more beautiful than that? I feel so connected. In those moments under the sea, I realized that I don’t want to be at the top of the food chain; I just want to be a part of it.
I stopped for lunch; I’ve been enjoying fish with every meal here. It’s so tasty, gives me great energy for scuba, keeps me full forever, and I feel nice and light – the opposite of how you feel after french fries or pizza. Lunch has been grilled fish with vegetables or a salad (I ask for that instead of rice, which isn’t as tasty and doesn’t have as many nutrients). I went on a long walk to the far ends of Hulhumale. It’s a small island, and you can easily walk the length of it in 30-45 minutes. I saw this beautiful park…
I love the benches, decorated with random shattered tile. I hope they’re recycled.
I don’t know why my mascara is smudged. I bet I was sweating, it’s so humid here!
I walked to the beach to watch the sun set. This guy had caught this octopus right here, in the area I’ve been bathing in all week! Though it doesn’t get more than 4′ deep (there’s a breakwater protecting it 100 meters from the beach), there are so many sea creatures!
I showered and changed for dinner. My outfit is completely made up of things I purchased on this trip! Sandals from Greece, Maldivian pants, Indian tunic, and Italian purse. Most of these were necessary purchases – I had brought one old cheap pair of sandals that made me stumble, so I replaced them; the pants I had were too hot for the Maldives, my legs were sweating; and I planned to buy this purse after I ran out of time to sew one for myself before the trip. But that tunic is just dang cute!
I went to an Indian restaurant named Bombay, and totally treated myself. I had dal makhani with rice and naan, paneer chicken, and a caramel custard for dessert. Including the mango juice and iced coffee than accompanied my meal, and a tip it was $22. A total treat, as most of my meals here have ranged from $2-10. There was enough food for two people, and the server kindly packed the leftovers to go.
(I added some more details about last night in the blog post below, btw)
After waking up on the airport bench, I started my morning by illegally streaming the last 30 minutes of The Fault in our Stars, a movie I hadn’t finished on the plane to India 2 weeks ago, and cried at the airport, not for the first time, and certainly not for the last. I think I like crying in public; I’ll have to explore that weirdness another time. I hunted down some coffee and an authentic Maldivian breakfast, mashuni (chopped tuna with coconut, pepper, onion, and lime) with roti (flat bread), and a boiled egg.
Then took some pictures with flowers as I waited for the next bus back to Hulhumale. The trees in the Maldives have the most beautiful flowers; this one had fallen onto the ground.
That’s where I met Serkan, at the bus stop. He seemed to be a business traveler, and I was curious as to where he’s from and what brings him to the Maldives, so I said hi. I’m always more comfortable when I start the conversation with a stranger than when someone approaches me. If I’m approached I assume they have an agenda, innocent or not. But if I’m the one that says hi, well, it’s on my terms and within my comfort zone. I do this all the time: make sure I’m the person initiating conversation. Even when I’m at the airport looking for a taxi and a bunch of drivers approach me, I walk past them and approach a driver with an official cab that’s not flagging me down. Serkan is from Istanbul, but had lived in LA for years, something he proudly shared with me, an American. He’s a travel agent, often booking honeymooners in the Maldives, and is here on business. I was right! But he seemed to know very little about the Maldives – he brought a bottle of whiskey which was confiscated, obviously. He was looking for a guesthouse to stay in Hulhumale for the night before continuing on to the resorts he works with. I told him what little I’d learned in the last few days, and pointed him in the right direction for a guesthouse. He asked if I was free for dinner and we planned to meet at 8pm. I walked back to my guesthouse and made sure I wasn’t followed, but there was no need to worry this time. I’ve come to realize I have incredible intuition, especially with people.
After getting changed for scuba, I walked along the beach towards the dive center. I love how quiet it is here in the mornings.
A mosque I came across along the way.
And some komorebi photography, of course:
In that 20 minute walk, a good 4-5 men offered me a lift on their scooters. But I love to walk.
Scuba as excellent again today. Look at that frog fish!
Today I got sunburned. This trip is the first time in my life I’ve forgone sunscreen. The hot sun felt so good on my face and shoulders. The small dive group today had a lovely conversation. We talked about the fact that life and experiences are more important than money. Mitte, my instructor, told me that he left a big job in Japan to come to the Maldives, and that even though he has a much smaller income now, and no fancy car and watch, he’s so much happier. You should have seen him squeal with delight when we saw that tiny white fish-thing with the black polka dots! He has such vibrant energy! Then Dhous, the guy with the silly smile and the yellow t-shirt, asked: what has more power, a gun, money, or a pen? Mitte jokingly answered money, but the pen is the answer. I commented that the key is the mind that fuels the pen. It was so great to commune with people that have such clarity, peace, and lust for life. My spirit was shining.
When we returned to the dock, there was a fisherman hauling in his catch of the day.
Saji, a Maldivian who is also going for his Open Water scuba certification, bough this yellow fin tuna, below. He’s a good 18-24″ long, FAT, and only cost 80 ruffia, about $6. Damn, Maldivians eat well! Super fresh fish all the time!
I’m sleep deprived. I had only slept about 3 hours at the airport. I took a nap on the lounge on the roof of the guesthouse I’m staying in. Had a bite for lunch. Then bought some sunscreen and took a nap on the beach, it felt so good to rest in the sun.
In the evening Kamey, the guy who works at the tourism office that connected me with the dive club, came by so I could pay my bill. He invited me to join him for a coffee. I can’t believe I almost said no, but I’m so glad I said yes! We met with his boss Ruth, a woman from England who has been living in the Maldives for the last few years. We chatted about scuba diving, and she told us about one of her favourite spots, and the sea life she’s seen there. I asked Kamey if he has a favourite island (he’s visited hundreds of them!), and he mentioned Formula (I’m certainly spelling it wrong), a one-island atoll in the far south of the Maldives. An atoll is a ring-shaped chain of islands, and the Maldives has 26 of them. As a one-island atoll, Formula has a natural lake in the middle of the island, and as its protected from the ocean by the island surrounding it, the tiny pebbles on the beach have been polished smooth over the years. Kamey and Ruth said there’s nowhere in the world that has the same shining smooth pebbles. I told Ruth about my trip, and my wish to leave my job and my country for a new experience. That’s when she told me that her partner is head of engineering at this tourism company Secret Paradise. And that he’s always looking for project managers! I beamed at the idea of possibly working with them in the Maldives! I floated on air as I walked back to my guesthouse to get ready for dinner.
When I met Serkan, he was sitting with Ruth! They had connected through a mutual contact and were discussing travel options for Serkan’s clients. It is a tiny island, after all. We chatted and Ruth told us about Maldivian culture. She also told us that the Maldives gives its people a plot of land on their native island when they marry. Maldivian men instantly became more attractive to me. She also explained the custom of hedika, a traditional Maldivian snack of small eats served with black tea in the afternoon,. This is the meal I shared with Abdullah and Fatith my first day in the Maldives.
Today I leapt out of bed at 6:30am, and headed to the roof of my guest house for breakfast. Most of the other guests, and tourists in the Maldives in general, are Chinese. I have yet to meet an American visitor.
I walked to the beach, intent to get more than just my ankles wet.
After a beautiful morning swim, I went to the scuba dive center. They fitted a wet suit and flippers for me, loaded up the boat, and we were off!
The views are incredible!
I was introduced to my instructor, and the one other person going for open water certification. We had a thorough introductory lesson. Every time he said “don’t do ___, or else serious injury.” my heart rate increased! I’ve been told that scuba diving isn’t hard, and that the most important thing is to not panic. So I asked my instructor and the experienced divers what creatures I could expect to see. Manta rays 6′ wide, whale sharks 12′ long… ok, I can deal with that. Then someone casually said hammerhead shark. Wha? Aren’t those people-eaters? Then someone said white shark. How big, I asked? Up to 30′?! Holy crap! But shark attacks are unheard of here. The experienced divers have such a peaceful attitude about the sharks. They called them beautiful, part of the majesty of life. There was no fear in them, just love, and that put me at ease. I also liked hearing them call the sharks “vegetarian”. I’ve also been taught that deep breathing is important while diving, and I looked forward to putting all the meditating over the last few months to work.
For some reason I was most scared as I jumped into the water, with all my scuba gear on. Silly, it was only a 4′ drop, and I wasn’t going underwater yet. But I dunno, as soon as I was in the ocean my nerves calmed. I’ve always said mental clarity is found in the water, and it was proven to be true today. I instantly fell in love with scuba! We went 10 meters deep for our first dive, for about 45 minutes. We saw the huge manta rays my instructor had spoken of, as well as a turtle, an eel, and countless tropical fish all colors of the rainbow. I was fascinated! I was swimming in the world’s largest aquarium! I felt so much like a part of the world. My energy shined.
Back ashore, we hung out on some Maldivian swings near the coast before heading our separate ways.
I dropped my stuff at my guest house and got a restaurant recommendation: Ravin’s. And look, they have this sweet little talking parrot named Tweety!
How is it that India and the Maldives have the best iced coffee? I think they whip it with ice cream to make it so creamy!
I ordered what the server recommended, grilled king fish. Finally, the delicious fresh fish I’ve been looking for this entire trip! I’m so glad I continued to try fish, this one was so crazy good!
I walked down the beach and watched the sun set.
I spent the evening in the hotel, feeding my internet addiction. One of the staff members, Sirash had told me about Hulhumale International Hotel (HIH), a hotel near the airport that has a bar. As the Maldives is an Islamic country, alcohol is strictly prohibited in the islands inhabited by the locals. I knew this before arriving, and had no qualms about going dry for a week. But I was restless, so I took up Sirash up on his offer to drop me off at HIH. I ordered a Sri Lankan beer and sat at a table intent on catching up on my blog. As soon as I opened my laptop, a gentleman asked if the other seat at my table was free. I didn’t know if he was looking for a seat or for my company, but I said yes and continued on my laptop as I had just paid for 2 hours of wifi use. I entertained his small talk (I hate small talk), but didn’t engage fully. I’m pretty good at saying “no,” without saying “no” and remaining polite. He soon got the picture and wished me a nice evening.
Twenty minutes later, another guy asked to sit with me. We chatted a bit (more small talk), and he tried to impress me with his job as a sous chef at one of the resorts (I hate boasting, and prefer casual confidence). I engaged with him a little more than with the first guy, and said yes to a beer. Then he ordered a bucket of beer! Is he trying to get me drunk? I continued to work on my blog as we talked, which obviously bothered him. He kept asking me “what are you doing?” though I had answered that question multiple times, and “are you bored?” even though he wasn’t making conversation. Come on man, we’re not on a date! I was working on my laptop before you got here; what makes you think that would change due to your presence? I quickly went from mildly flattered to irritated. I’m pretty sure he was just at HIH to pick up a woman. I asked which island he lives in, and as far as I could understand (strong accent + poor English = rough conversation), it seemed like he says at the resort when he’s working and I have no idea where he stays on his days off. He said he needed to find a guesthouse to stay at on Hulhumale, the affordable island near the airport that I’m staying on. He even asked if he could stay with me – how bold! At this point it was nearing midnight, and I was getting tired, something I made sure to share with him. He was offering to show me something – not sure what – after we left HIH; not so much offering, but more assuming we were about to go off somewhere together. I made it clear that I was heading straight to bed alone after I (not we) left. And sure enough, he followed me as I walked to the exit. I asked at the front desk for a cab back to my guesthouse (he told me he’d get a cab for me, but I take care of myself), but none were running. When he continued to follow me after I left the hotel, I told him I was uncomfortable and asked him to leave me alone. He pretended to walk away as I walked to the airport’s bus stop, but I saw him following me. I circled back and hopped on the hotel’s shuttle that dropped me off at the airport bus stop. After checking the schedule for the bus that would take me back to my guesthouse on Hulhumale, I sat down to kill 20 minutes. And then he walked up to me again. Thankfully, when I asked him to leave me alone in the middle of an airport, there were enough people nearby for him to be embarrassed, and few enough people that everyone heard my words. He disappeared, for good.
Back in Hulhumale, I checked the time, 12:40am. I’ll blame my late night hunger on the beer that creep bought for me, and I sought a snack at Ravin’s, my new favourite restaurant a block from my hotel. It was 2am by the time I went back to my guesthouse, and I found the downstairs door locked! Holy crap! I had been careful enough to make sure that the bus runs late, but I didn’t think about entering the small guesthouse late at night. I called the two employees whose numbers I had, but they didn’t pick up, and I didn’t have the front desk number. My phone was at 2% battery anyway. Despite the creep I had ran into at HIH, Hulhumale is incredibly safe. I thought about sleeping on the beach for a few hours, or on one of the loungers in front of the guesthouse, but I just didn’t feel right about that. I chose to take the bus back to the airport. At least there are people and safety there. Lucky me! I found an outlet, and a seat near a store that shared their wifi password with me when I first arrived. I finished my blog posting, charged my phone, and slept on the uncomfortable bench until dawn.
Welcome to the Maldives! From Bangalore, I took about a 1-hour flight to Colombo, Sri Lanka, then another 1-hour flight to Malé in the Maldives.
I couldn’t believe that even the airport has a beautiful ocean view! I withdrew some Maldivian money, and bought a sim card with a local number.
I made arrangements through Airbnb to stay at the Travel Lodge on a small island called Mulah. They picked me up at the airport and took me to their location on the island Hulhumale; I’ll be taking the boat to Mulah tomorrow morning. I didn’t mind at all, I wanted some time in the capital city Malé anyway. There are ferries (equivalent to public transport), speed boats (expensive), and sea planes (even more expensive), connecting the 1200ish islands that make up the Maldives. Hulhumale is an artificial island connected to the island that hosts the airport. It’s just a quick 15 minute drive away.
The first thing I did after dropping bags at the bed&breakfast was head to the beach a block away!
I was so sleep-deprived. I wandered the quiet island.
I found myself at the ferry terminal. I boarded a ferry to Malé. It was a 30 minute journey, and cost 5 rufaa, about $0.30.
Malé is a bustling little city. The coast is crowded with docked boats. The Maldives is an Islamic country. That means that women dress modestly and cover their heads, and bikinis are banned at public beaches. Alcohol and pork products are banned everywhere except the resort islands.
Every inch of the island is packed with people, stores, and restaurants. I found myself at the fish market. They had some tiny fish the size of a finger, and some huge fish that are 4’ long!
Right next to it was a fresh fruit and vegetable market.
I stopped at one stand that had food I couldn’t identify. There were cigar-shaped items that turned out to be candy-like items. The kind man working the stand gave me a taste of a few of them, as well as spicy peanuts, yucca chips, and a slice of fresh mango.
I stopped at a tiny restaurant near the markets. I didn’t realize until now that I haven’t eaten in 14 hours! They had a display case with a variety of goods.
I ordered a chicken kothu roshi without any idea of what it was. As I sat waiting for my food, I realized that the 30+ people in the restaurant were all male, and almost all of them were obviously staring at me (purely out of curiosity; I would have felt so uncomfortable if they were checking me out or something). I’ve never felts so out of place. The meal I ordered totally hit the spot. Kothu roshi a spicy mixture of chicken or tuna, onions, vegetables, and chopped roshi, which is a very thin bread. I thought the roshi was pasta at the time.
I saw more of the island. There are beautiful mosques scattered about. You can often see people’s shoes lined up outside of them, and a foot washing station too.
I stopped at a souvenir shop where the salesperson showed me some antique coins. The shell below is the original currency used in the Maldives.
This is the President’s office:
My goal for the day is to find out about scuba diving. I don’t know much about it, but I hope to get certified within the week. I’ve tried finding information online to no avail. I found a couple of options by asking at shops that sell scuba gear. At one of them I met Abdulla, who took me to meet his friend and dive instructor Fathih. He took me to a local restaurant, similar to where I had the kothu roshi. This place had all-male clients too.
I chose three things, no idea what they are. The one in the rear is very similar to an Indian samosa, with potato and pea filling. The ones in the front had fish in it.
Abdulla and Fathih told me about the diving course, and we made tentative plans. They’re very nice, and incredibly knowledgeable about diving, but I intend to compare their offer to what the more reputable dive schools offer. Abdulla introduced me to what’s pictured below, I don’t know what it’s called. He wrapped a sliver of what I think is a nut in some kind of leaf, and sprinkled cinnamon on top. It was a very refreshing palate cleanser.
I took the ferry back to Hulhumale, and stopped at a dive shop on the way to the beach. They offered me a better deal, and I felt more comfortable with them than with Fathih, so I re-arranged my scuba plans. I also decided to stay in Hulhumale for the week instead of going to the small island Mulah. It sounds beautiful there, but it’s very far away, and there are more options for activities and scuba here. I walked along the beach in the darkness. And damn, how dark! The stars here are incredible. I had intended to do some night swimming, but immediately got a little nervous. There are so many creatures on the beach, though I was only ankle-deep in the water. I saw tiny crabs, what I’m pretty sure are shrimp, hermit crabs, and see-through fish that you could barely see. Sometimes the only thing visible was the shadow of the tiny fish. When I planned my trip here, I had intended to spend a night at a deserted island. But seeing all the creatures, albeit tiny, and how dark the darkness is made me even more nervous about that idea. I thought about my scuba plans for tomorrow, and got even more nervous about that. If the tiny sea creatures in 3” of water intimidated me, how would I handle encounters with manta rays and possibly sharks that are bigger than me?!
Tags100 birthday cakes Agerola and the Amalfi coast animals art & design baking big questions biking books & prose Brussels chicago cooking eating Europe-India-Maldives garden Geneva Greece happiness India komorebi life lessons love Maldives mindfulness music my home my thoughts nature NYC pain Paris people I love pictures quote quotes revelations Rome sewing soloing The History of Love travel ttmmhs unity video who am i words for everything